Fu's Garden - Houston, TX - Modestly and Mostly Good

Fu's Garden Restaurant

Houston, TX

Dinner

January 21, 2010

The Set-Up - After spending all morning on the road from Baton Rouge to Houston, and all afternoon at Texas Medical Center getting a CT scan (complete with barium contrast fluid), I was ready for a quick meal nearby featuring relatively bland food. McGonigel's Mucky Duck, complete with live music beckoned, but Fu's Garden, several blocks closer, at least two hours quicker (no concert), and $20 per head cheaper (the cover charge for the music) won out. We'd driven past it several times during our trips to Houston and often said that we'd try it someday. Thursday was the day.

The restaurant seemed to be struggling a bit with its marketing. In almost passive-aggressive style, their takeout menu and the plaques on the wall noted Houston Metropolitan Magazine's modest claim - "One of the most popular Hunan restaurants in Houston", while the Houston Press's claim almost screamed in comparison, "Best Chinese Food."

Though Fu's Garden was more than adequate for our Thursday night dinner, I didn't see convincing evidence to support either claim. At 7 p.m, you'd think prime dinner hour with nearby Rice University in session, we were one of just five or six parties seated in a restaurant with a least thirty tables. Maybe it's the bad economy in action. As for the food, I'll get to that right now.

The Meal - We got off to an auspicious start. Both the special won ton soup ($1.75) and the spring rolls (two for $2.60) were excellent. The won tons were served on the side. The soup featured a dumpling along with shrimp and chicken. A bowl of this soup ($5.00) with a spring roll or two would have made a good light meal.


For entrees, Kay ordered the Sauteed Shrimp and Chicken in Pepper Corn Sauce ($11.50), while, looking to avoid a lot of spice, I went with the usually reliable Combination Fried Rice ($7.50).

Kay's food was hot, spicy and yummy. We could have gotten by sharing it. My fried rice was average at best. Trying to hold down the salt and fat content (I guess), Fu's underworked the dish with too little soy sauce and butter. The pork, shrimp and chicken were all fine, but the whole dish was a little too white. The dish also lacked vegetables, which I expected given that it was called "combination."


Drinks - Kay had a glass of wine ($5). I had iced tea. Both were good, but unremarkable.

Ambience - Fu's basically had one large dining room with a smaller room that looked like it could be closed off for private parties. The furnishings were very nice, but not fussy. A substantial mosaic adorned one wall. My photo doesn't do it justice, nor does my other photo of a floral painting. Both were beautiful. Fu's avoided the overdecorated style that hampers some Asian restaurants. Lighting was also adequate. I've eaten in some Chinese restaurants that were just too dark to see the menu. I wished I'd gotten a photo of the two "thrones" in the foyer. They were a unique touch.



Service - As you would expect, service was quietly efficient. Both of the waiters on staff helped us and a third gentleman kept both tea and water glasses full. The waiters did a particularly good job of clearing used plates and bowls without being pushy.

The Check - With tax and tip, the bill for two was less than $40. Very reasonable, particularly since we both left with half a plate of food in a to-go container.

The Scoreboard (one-to-five scale)

Food - four (pulled down by the fried rice)

Drinks - four (good but not special)

Ambience - four (a near five - quietly elegant)

Service - five (unspectacularly excellent - the best kind)

Price/Value - four (five possible with better selection off the menu)


Overall Assessment

Special Occasion

Favorite

Very Good - Except for the fried rice, everything about Fu's met our needs. However, a restaurant that bills itself "Best Chinese Food" should handle a staple dish like fried rice better than Fu's did.

Good Enough

If Hungry Enough

Keep Driving and Looking

Fu's Garden Restaurant

2539 University Blvd.

Houston, TX 77005

713.520.7422 phone

713.522.6190 fax
713.520.7422 delivery

Yes, Fu's Garden offers free delivery for dinner within a five mile radius.

Leftover Report - The fried rice and spicy chicken and shrimp worked great together heated in the microwave the next day.

Hours:

Monday - Thursday 11:00 am til 10:00 pm
Friday 11:00 am til 10:30 pm
Saturday 11:30 am til 10:30 pm
Sunday 11:30 am til 10:00 pm

http://fus-garden.com